General Articles
Lipstick Liberation
Julia Moore is a lecturer in law, and project manager for a variety of educational projects both in the UK and Europe. Dividing her work and living between the UK and France, she frequently advises start-up organisations in the not-for-profit sector, and produces educational material for a range of establishments. She is currently developing e-learning resources for the international education market.
What is the connection between singer Lady GaGa, the classic war movie 'Ice-cold in Alex', and female captives of the Nazi Bergen-Belsen camp? Answer: Lipstick.
As an iconic symbol of female-ness, the lipstick prevails over any other make-up item. What it represents is broad-brush. Its presence is seen wherever humans created memorials to themselves - pyramids, caves, then language-based records. What it appears to depict is self and community identity, individualism and self-expression. This applies across the genders, too.
However its significance for women can be seen in the above 3 cases: Lady Gaga- currently one of the USA's top performers - put her name to a range of lipsticks as part of a humanitarian campaign. The objective is simple. African women whose lifestyles puts them at most risk of HIV/AIDS, it is hoped, have a mechanism- a small, portable, discreet reason, to 'go to the bathroom' prior to sex, and (so the plan goes) return not only with re-applied make-up, but condoms- promoting safe-sex and related health benefits. When Belsen concentration camp was freed in 1945, the front line army was appalled and outraged that the Red Cross should send a consignment of lipsticks along with life-saving essentials. In a poignant and harrowing special exhibition currently at the Imperial War Museum (London)- dying and recovering women are recorded, falling upon this tiny symbol of self-respect- a promise of hope and perhaps some glamour to come. And who could forget the last frames of that black and white movie 'Alex', when nurse (Sylvia Simms) hesitates to re-apply her lipstick, having pushed a war-ambulance up several sand-dunes. The interpretation is ambiguous- not re-applying the lipstick, she joins the chaps for a celebratory beer instead.
Diverse examples, surreal maybe, but illustrative of how this specific art of body-paint finds its way into the popular culture. There can be a dual-function. It can symbolise strength or weakness- sometimes both. The 1976 film 'Lipstick' along with the film's poster enjoyed temporary fame… the female-victim-turned-victor sexually violent plot-line, signified both female weakness and final strength.
Lipstick has too, been used as a political weapon. When Sarah Palin made that infamous 'Pit-bull' quote which caused a fleeting flurry during the 2008 USA Presidential campaign, the make-up industry enjoyed a short period of rising sales. Illustrating that you can lose - and gain votes - in one movement.
Either as icon or symbol, lipstick as a form of body art can label, and send messages without words ….colour and tone of lipstick transmit both mood and fashion statements, be they conformity or rebellious- so think carefully next time you select your shade, it may say more about you than you think….